How to Create Advanced Isometric Illustrations Using the SSR Method

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This is the second part of a series of tutorials I’m doing about creating isometric illustrations in Adobe Illustrator. If you’ve missed that first tutorial I suggest you start with Working with Orthographic Projections and Basic Isometrics. Let’s get started!

Final Image Preview

Below is the final design we will be working towards. And below that is an example of this process taken further. Want access to the full Vector Source files and downloadable copies of every tutorial, including this one? Join VECTORTUTS PLUS for just $9/month.

Introduction

In the last tutorial I covered how to make an isomeric grid and build simple blocky shapes on it. In this tutorial I’m going to talk about another method of creating isometric shapes that doesn’t require
a grid and is much more useful if your objects are complex or curvy.

When creating a complicated isometric illustration it’s best to begin by breaking down your object into its simplest parts. This will help to make the project more approachable. It is possible to make the most complex objects entirely on an isometric grid using the method I discussed in the last tutorial. There is another method that is much more useful for creating curvy or complex isometric objects in Adobe Illustrator. I’m going to call this method scale, shear, rotate or SSR.

The basic idea behind the SSR method is that by using tools in Adobe Illustrator you can place an object onto an isometric plane without using a grid. This method is most useful for curvy or complex objects but it will work for anything. I’ll begin simply by making an isometric cube. Follow the steps below for the SSR Method.

Step 1

Create a 4 inch square with your Rectangle tool.

Step 2

With the square selected double-click on your Scale tool. Scale the square 86.062% vertically.

Step 3

With your object selected double-click on the Shear tool and shear the object 30 degrees.

Step 4

With the object selected double-click on the Rotate tool and rotate it -30 degrees. You have now created the top of your cube.

Step 5

To create the left side of the cube, begin with a 4 inch square. Scale vertically 86.062%, Shear -30 degress, and Rotate -30 degrees.

Step 6

Use the selection tool (black arrow) to line up the front corner with the top of the cube.

To create the right side of the cube, begin with a 4 inch square. Scale vertically 86.062%, Shear 30 degrees, and Rotate 30 degrees.

Step 7

Next, move the pieces into place with your Selection tool. You have now created an isometric cube without using a grid.

The power of this method becomes apparent when you try to create an object that would be very difficult to construct on a grid. This method only works if you have a set of orthographics to work with.

Making a Stratocaster Using the SSR Method

For this example I’m going to build the body of a Guitar. To make this complex shape in isometric using only a grid would be a challenge. The complex curves and compound shapes would be very difficult to recreate accurately.

Step 1

There are many ways to make a set of orthographics depending on your object. You can look online for a set of blue prints, you could trace a photo, and if you own the object you could take it
apart and measure it. Use whatever method works best for your project.

One quick Google search and I’ve found the perfect set of factory blueprints of the “62 vintage re-issue Fender Stratocaster.” These blueprints are much more detailed then I need, but you can be as precise as you’d like for your own projects. Having too much information about your object is never a bad thing.

Step 2

Trace your blueprints. I’m going to trace just the information I need to complete my isometric, and I’m going to simplify parts of the design.

Step 3

Once you’ve chosen your orientation you can scale, shear, rotate (SSR), your bottom plane.

You can check your work by comparing any edges that in the orthographic are 90 degrees or 180 degrees. These edges will now fall onto an isometric grid; they will either be on the 30 degree or 150 degree angle.

Step 4

Now that you’ve created your base you have something to work off of. By taking the side view of the orthographic and scale, shear, rotate (SSR) it onto the Isometric plane you can figure out the thickness of the guitar body.

Step 5

Line up the bottom edge of the guitar body with the corner of the orthographic side view.

Step 6

Next you want to copy the outline of the guitar body and move it up to the top edge of the side view. To do this use your Selection tool and click and drag on the edge of the outline, before letting go, engage the Option button to make a copy. You should also use the Shift key to constrain the movement. Holding the Shift key while moving the shape will ensure it stays lined up with the original.

Step 7

Now you have blocked out the top and bottom planes of the guitar body. The next step is to cut out the spot where the neck is inset. Start by connecting the top and bottom planes of the neck opening so
it’s easier to see the area that you are working on.

Step 8

Using the side view you can mark off how deep the neck cutaway goes into the body. You now have three planes, the top, bottom and depth of the cutaway.

Step 9

The next step is to use the Scissors tool to cut away all the excess lines you don’t need anymore. This is often the hardest part for an artist new to technical drawing. All the overlapping lines and shapes can be overwhelming. But if you take your time and start with the clear big shapes it will help to clean up the more complex areas.

Step 10

After clearing away all the line you don’t need anymore, connect your corners and finish the shapes.

Add some line quality and you’re finished.

Conclusion

You have now finished the body of the guitar. You could continue on and complete the entire guitar, the exact same steps would apply for each part. This is an example of an exploded isometric of a Stratocaster I did a few years ago with this method.

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Discussion 55 Comments

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  1. Callum Jefferies says:

    Very nice! Why is it you’re using ‘86.062%’ when scaling objects? Seems quite precise… Anyway, this is great – like something you’d see in an instruction manual.

    • Ronaldo says:

      Help! i’ve done the cube but they don’t exactly “fit” together. there’s an excess tip when I put them together, they’re a bit overlapping, i’ve tried the “86.602%” instead of the “86.062%” but still it wont fit… is this really like this? or i’m missing something here… thanks in advance!

  2. WCHMonk says:

    This is a nice tutorial, but just wondering wouldn’t it be easier to make a square, then go to Effect > 3D > Rotate, then from the position choose Isometric Left/Right/Top for whatever view you’re doing. Just seems like it would save a bit of time compared to doing it manually? Other than that great tutorial.

    • Enes says:

      I think he just made it to show the technique…

    • Dell'Orto Corrado says:

      He Didn’t used the 3D Effect because it’s an effect and not a technical work.

      Moreover, the effect cannot be modified in it’s details (but the Technical can) and, in conclusion, can bring errors to the project (most if you work on Windows).

      Bye.

  3. Lars says:

    nice, doing it right now aint that hard since i’ve got this example. But if I had to do it from scratch… dont even ask! :p

  4. Timothy says:

    Really cool. I always wonder how artists do that. Thanks! Delicioused

  5. Rachelle says:

    I agree with Timothy, I always wondered how illustrators got those diagrams so accurate and nice looking! Good to know!

  6. Dan says:

    Freaking nice, this may come in handy

  7. bendsen says:

    these techical drawings are so awesome – nice job and thx for showing !

  8. ed says:

    now i just need to find blueprints for a Les Paul…

    nice tut

  9. Grafiko says:

    very insightful information. thanks for sharing

  10. Bill says:

    You can automate this process a by using Actions.

  11. K3v says:

    I like these kind of tutorials. You don’t see stuff like that on the web very often!

  12. Pratik says:

    I think the scale value has something to do with cosine of 30 degrees which is 0.86602 which translates to 86.602, but the author uses 86.062. Maybe a miscalculation on his part? Excellent article though!!!!

  13. Another quality tutorial! There’s a lot you can do with this method, so I’ll be sure to give it a go with something soon.

  14. Jonathan says:

    @Bill- my thoughts too.

    Nice final result.

  15. Dy says:

    Really nice tuts :D
    must be patient to do this tuts heheh X)

  16. devlim.com says:

    Nice but too many process

  17. Mr Kuzio says:

    Cool!

    Seems like a project for a personal copy of the guitar, is it not cool?

  18. Theo says:

    Excellent!

  19. Maurizio says:

    Grat stuff! I was looking for something like that!!! Well done! :)

  20. Kim says:

    Heh, just saw this linked off Drawn, and as soon as it said “Toronto area illustrator” combined with that pic, I figured you were a Sheridan techie grad. I’m in the program, but not a techie – this stuff scares the crap out of me, always wondered how they did it. And now I know! (Sort of.)

  21. Paige says:

    This is an excellent tutorial from someone who clearly harbors a passion for technical illustration. I’m looking forward to future installments!

  22. aaronp says:

    I didn’t see it mentioned, but changing the constraining angles in the AI preferences speeds things up too if you need to do some free drawing.

  23. Omair Rais says:

    Excellent Tutorial

    Thanks
    Omair Rais
    http://www.omairarts.com

  24. The operation is equivalent to creating a square, rotating it by 45 degrees, and scaling it vertically by 57.735% (this is the tangent of 30 degrees). It’s like pushing a square standing upright on a point downwards.

    However, most of vector design programs apply transformations to the object’s bounding box too, so you lose the ‘vertical’ direction after the first rotation with the ‘intuitive’ method just mentioned. The SSR method is a nice turnaround to this problem.

    The number 86.602 is the cosine of 30 degrees.

  25. T|Kawai says:

    Aaaah, so thats how you do it!

  26. igregurec says:

    it’s nice to see that someone is still doing that in the old fashioned way cause it’s now couple of clicks in 3d program if you got the model

  27. Cody Walker says:

    Thank you everyone for the great response!

    Pratik > I think you may be right! I have some old reference that uses 86.062 but after reading your comment I did some searching and found it both ways in several different places online. So I’ll have to confirm, but what you said makes sense.

  28. Thendenze says:

    Very very good tutorial

  29. ZPaolo says:

    Good tutorial and neat idea, nonetheless if you have the 3d model (and with such blueprints you can build it in a snap in any decent CAD system) and software like Arbortext ISODraw you can obtain the same results effortlessly…

  30. richard says:

    woaaa . well or you just model it in something like blender and setup isometric a cam
    and export as vector ^^

  31. Great tutorial!

    Been a while since I made these kind of illustrations, so this one will be very handy next time I do a SSR image. Especially the 86.062 value was good to know!

  32. vin says:

    awesome! I have to do one for class so this is just perfect timing. Thanks man

  33. Manny says:

    Using CAD/Blender to export models is valid–if you have access to them. A lot of times the illustrator doesn’t have access to such files and must produce art in an efficient and timely manner and there’s no guarantee they’ll know how to use a 3D program.

  34. hlaiken says:

    Thanks for putting together this tutorial, it was perfectly timed for some technical drawings that I had to do.

    Pratik is correct though, it is 86.602% this becomes evident once you try to create any boxes that are not cubes.

  35. BriScrye says:

    THere is a student project where you create an isometric projection of a product box that follows the same steps/procedure… I like this take on it but wonder if it’s too much for a first semester of Illustrator instruction?

  36. really nice technique

  37. Facundo says:

    quote:
    “This is an example of an exploded isometric of a Stratocaster I did a few years ago with this method.”

    the explode illustration of the example isn’t a Stratoccaster, it looks like a Gibson SG (that one use the guitarrist of ACDC).

    The tutorial is really good. Thanx for share.

  38. Ross McVinnie says:

    Not sure if this is an easier way to make a cube or if it is even correct but here goes:

    Draw a square. Vertically scale 115%. Shear vertically 30º. Rotate 60º. You now have the top face of your cube.

    Left face: Repeat above steps but don’t rotate 60º.

    Right face: Repeat steps again but shear vertically -30º instead of 30º.

    Like I say, this seems easier to me, if only because 115% is easier to remember than 86.062 but it also seems like less rotating. Quite happy to be shot down though if I’m wrong.

    All the best.

  39. Triswan says:

    cool…. i always wanted to draw this kinda stuff

  40. Enes says:

    Really awesome and useful tutorial, thanks for that!

    But what I don’t get is how you did the thicker border on the outside of the Box. I really have no clue, could somebody explain it for me… that’d be nice :)

  41. Eric Dubois says:

    Setting up 3 actions for “left”, “right” and “top” really speeds things up, and avoids typing in the wrong #s.

    For the thicker outline, you can either copy the line segments, paste in place and change the thickness, or you can copy everything, paste in place, use pathfinder -> add to shape area (to combine all 3 sides) and change the thickness. You can also use the scissor tool to separate the segments. The option you choose depends on whether you need a fill for the object, for each face, or no fill.

    • Eric Dubois says:

      Oh… I forgot other time-savers:
      - Use smart guides (just turn object highlighting off so it doesn’t drive you crazy).
      - Set Angles to 0, 30, 45, 90, 135, 150

  42. Daniel says:

    When you are done with a part you can also rotate it again by insert 120 degrees in “Rotate”.

    If you are using a European Adobe program you may need to use “,” instead if “.” when you write things like “86.062%”.

    Also if you use “Move” (ctrl+shift+M, when you have select a object) you can move your parts in “3D” by moving them in the angel “30″, “-30″,”150″ and “-150″

    When you are done and think you are ready, use the “Effect” -> “Distort and transform” -> “Free distort”. There you can give your 3D picture a more realistic appearance

  43. Bowman says:

    This is a lot of work for something you could do in five seconds with any decent 3D program…

    • Skaaven says:

      But your output isn’t vectorial, or if you use vector renderings (like FinalToon), it isn’t as editable as with this method.

      Very useful!

      • Victor says:

        I definitely appreciate the tutorial because it gives you the background information on one of the coolest design-styles ever! :)

        However, there is a 3rd option to Bowman’s and Skaaven’s comments:
        Create a flat shape, then go to Effect > 3D > Extrude and Bevel, and get the same Isometric effect quickly from the top drop-down box. This also automates the depth process (change the value of the Extrude Depth). Once you’re happy with your shape, go to Object > Expand Appearance, and the output is now a vector — you can Ungroup the items so you can edit all 3 sides separately, or you can leave it as-is and edit each side using the Direct Selection tool (white arrow).

        What I find a little more difficult to replicate using the above method is the cut-out where the neck inset is. This is where the grid and the method nicely presented by Cody can prove quite useful. Thank you Cody!

  44. Robert Wing says:

    Actions, as mentioned by Bill and Eric, you can automate your development with Actions. Saves a lot of time.
    Set up and name each Action to run a Right Hand Face, Left Hand Face, or Top Face. Set these actions to a key stroke.
    Move, or copy, your elements to a ‘Working’ layer, run the Action, them move the finished elements to your original layer.
    I prefer to do my fills in a layer under the line elements, makes for further editing much easier.
    Speaking of Actions, set your line weight designations to Actions, and assign a keystroke. Now what several mouse movements, or key inputs use to take, can be done with one key.

  45. Mardian Alvethia T. Y. says:

    this is exactly what i have been searching for hours!!!.. thx a lot man, i learn how to draw isometrically, but its been years, and now i need to do it again. thx a lot, you are really really good.. thx again.. hahaha.. now i can continue my presentation..

  46. jane says:

    thanks a lot!
    ..gives back fun to my work!

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